Louisville Mojo: Sergio's Secret Society of Beer

If you've driven through Butchertown lately, you may have noticed that a new business has decided to make a go of it in the ill-fated storefront location of 1605 Story Avenue. It's Sergio's World Beers, formerly located in Shelbyville and newly transplanted to Louisville.

A lot of people have been unsure whether the place is open or not yet, since there's no signage - just an immense Duvel's tapestry hanging in the window to keep the inner proceedings veiled from prying eyes. I decided to go in one recent afternoon and check it out for myself.

Like entering a secret speakeasy, I stepped through the doorway into what felt like a library of beer: shelves and coolers filled every available space, packed to capacity with all manner of brews from around the world. I stood there mesmerized by the glory of it all for a long moment but noticed that no one was saying "Hello, can I help you?" or "Party of one?" or "Need to see a menu?" or any of those things that people normally say to you when you walk into their restaurant.

A couple of young hipsters sat in the corner nursing beers, while a man was kneeling at a fridge stocking it with bottles. I began to think that I'd perhaps arrived at a time when they weren't open yet, so decided to inquire with the gentleman filing the bottles.

"Hello," I said, "I'm a reporter with Louisville Mojo and we'd like to do a story on your place..."

"Never heard of it", he said without looking up.

"Well, it's an online portal for local news and events, and we'd love to do a feature about Sergio's."

"We're not open."

I waited for him to elucidate. He didn't.

"Oh, I'm sorry, I can come back later, what time do you open?"

"We may never."

I waited again for elaboration, but none was forthcoming. Still no eye contact as he continued to file bottles into the fridge.

"Ooooookay, uh..... so... tell me more?"

Finally he looked up from what he was doing and told me that the place was officially unopen. Furthermore, it would probably never have an actual grand opening. He stated that he preferred to keep the place known only to a select few people who are worthy to be part of his exclusive group of literate food and beer connoisseurs.

He didn't seem at all interested in being written about.

I felt more like an intruder in a private club than a welcomed customer, so I excused myself and left. "Maybe I could come back tomorrow when you're not so busy, and we can talk some more about an article?", I asked. He shrugged and said sure, whatever.

I checked out their website that night and was dazzled by the array of beers on their 1000-plus list, plus the extensive menu of delicious-sounding food they offer. Being an aficionado of rare and exotic beers, clearly Sergio's and myself are a match made in Heaven - or should be. I resolved to go in again the next day and give it a fresh try and reintroduce myself.

On my second visit, I got Sergio (by this time I'd figured out it was the mysterious Sergio himself I'd been talking to all along) to warm up a little more, although he still was adamant from the getgo about the highly exclusive nature of his establishment, and how he doesn't want it to be open to everyone. "Well, ha ha, hopefully I'm worthy of gaining access to your secret beer club", I joked lightly.

"We all discussed it after you left yesterday and the others agreed that it was very strange that you didn't order a drink while you were here, so that's a point against you", he deadpanned.

I searched his eyes for signs that he was kidding. I saw none.

"Well, I don't drink on the job", I said, beginning to get truly irritated now. "I'm not here as a food and drink critic, I just want to write a short feature about your place, alerting more people to its existence."

I knew by now what was coming; he reiterated once again that he didn't really care if more people knew about his existence, because he was only interested in serving an elite clientele of people who share his passion for beers, etc., etc.

"So do you not want me to write the article, then?"

"Oh, no, go ahead. Just make sure they understand what we're about."

What really broke the ice between Sergio and I was going through his archives of beer, and talking about them together. His aloofness turned to excitability as he brought more and more bottles out and showed some of his favorites, and pointed out with pride that it was he who was the first to import them into the United States.

I have a special fetish for Belgian-style ales, and Sergio was quite happy to show me ones I've never ever heard of, and may never hear of again if I don't start giving him my business. Ommegang Breweries has a new winter ale already out - it's called "Adoration" - and Sergio's already on top of that and has it well in stock, along with Fantome's intriguing new Noel brew.

My initial frustration with having to walk Sergio's psychic gauntlet was worth it. Suddenly we were like kids in a candy store, talking about the seemingly neverending parade of fascinating beers out there in the world. So many beers, so little time.

I began to see that here was a man who was totally dedicated to the noble art of brewing, a man who looked around and found himself surrounded by a culture that swigs down mass-market beers that can only really be considered beers by the thinnest of legal technicalities. I began to sense that his standoffishness was that of a man who was weary of suffering these Coors-drinking fools gladly and wanted to weed out the riff-raff, surrounding himself only with tonier palates on whom his rare and special wares would not be wasted.

Speaking as one not inclined to cast pearls before swine myself, I can't say as I blame him, really.

So basically, my advice to the new recruit, to the plebe, the cowan, the initiate is this: leave behind your usual preconceptions of how things are supposed to be when you walk into a normal bar or restaurant. Think of it as going over to a friend's house instead; a friend who just happens to have over a thousand different brands of beer in his home. And just as you would when you're in someone else's house having a meal, be respectful of their customs and their ways, however peculiar and idiosyncratic you may find them.

Soon I will sit down and partake of Sergio's fine beverages and food - which sound positively mouth-watering from reading the menu. I'll report further on my findings at that time. (Perhaps then I'll finally gain some brownie points towards learning the secret handshake, the secret knock, and work towards earning my decoder ring and my level III "Wall of Beer" security clearance.)

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rob tue nov 17 2009 at 3:58 pm ·


	I'm looking forward to checking this place out over the weekend. No more trips to New Albany's and Rich O's. And yes, Chuck, I know about the beer cheese!

Trae tue nov 17 2009 at 8:51 pm ·


	Sergio's is truly a great place worth visiting if you are a true beer lover. The man knows his beers and after asking you a few questions about what you like, will suggest a killer of a beer.

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blogs: J.S. Holland